Replacing Timing Belt and Water Pump
After making 50K miles on my timing belt I've decided to change it along with water pump and all the parts that become accessible during front opening as they may or may not got old at the time.
Main challenge for me was to get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose. Usually it's done with impact gun but I do not have it yet. Simple solution came to mind. Using regular 1/4' ratchet inserted in pulley holes I broke the bolt lose in no time (see pictures).
To tight the same bolt on the end of the procedure I did the opposite. The same ratchet was used to tight this bolt.
Next was to remove the crank pulley. Now it's time to leave crankshaft and camshaft in proper position so you will have a better chance to align them later.
I used small bar to slowly slide the pulley out from each side by twisting bar against the engine block. Take careful moves here to make sure you don't bend the engine oil pan. Make sure you don't loose the pulley woodruff key.
Once pulley is out - remove the timing belt front cover. I believe there are 5 bolts. 10mm socket can do it.
Now you have the front of the engine exposed and the only obstacle is the motor mount.
In my case I removed the whole mount with two brackets that hold it. Cooling system expansion tank has to be removed for access to the motor mount body bolt (17mm socket here). Prior to removing the motor mount - support the engine from the bottom using hydraulic (or any other) jack and a piece of wood.
Now your work space is clear and you can work on parts that has to be replaced besides the timing belt.
Using the same 10mm socket remove the 4 water pump bolts and using the big screwdriver loose the pump in its place. Usually it gets stock there, so it may take a few moments to actually get it loose.
Do not forget to use some pan underneath of the engine to collect the coolant and prevent it from spilling on the ground.
To remove the belt tensioner - use 14mm socked and take the adjusting bolt out. Tensioner spring then can be removed easily. Clean up your engine as much as you need or want.
If you're replacing the front engine seal - use regular screwdriver to remove the old seal by twisting it out but do it after you cleaned the engine.
Check the surface where new seal will be sitting and if necessary - remove the rubber parts left there from the old seal. Put some motor oil on inside and outside surface of the new seal and using matching size deep socket (if you don't have a special tool for that) just set the new seal in-place.
Then try to push seal a bit deeper with caution and keeping it straight. Keep going slow checking seal position. When it's almost in-place use flat part of socket extension to push it all the way in by tapping on it all the way around. It should be level with surface of the hole that holds it.
Now install the crankshaft sprocket with inner and outer timing belt guides in proper positions. Assuming the water pump and belt tensioner already installed and there are no leaks in water pump gasket - timing belt could be installed.
Since you do not have timing marks for the crankshaft available yet - try to slip the timing belt without turning either pulley. Now it's time to check all the parts involved. Make sure you have all bolts tight according to the specs. Loose the belt tensioner and when you sure nothing is missing or forgotten - install the motor mount, tight its bolts and then install the timing belt front cover.
When cover is in-place - slip-in the camshaft pulley (do not forget about the woodruff key there). Tight the crankshaft pulley front bolt. Check the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley.
Camshaft marks are different for CRX Si and CRX DX and HF, please take a note of it.
If timing marks are not aligned remove timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and turn camshaft to align marks. Align crankshaft to match the timing marks. Slip the timing belt back on the camshaft sprocket leaving the front side of the belt straight. (front side here means the side of the belt closer to the front bumper of the car).
When all timing marks are in-places - rotate the engine slowly by CRANKSHAFT pulley counterclockwise two revolutions.
Counterclockwise is when you're looking at the engine from the driver side!!! (US Specs, CRX-es. I am not sure about UK or JDM specs here).
If timing marks checks-out OK. Tight the tensioner and make sure timing belt is not loose. Rotate engine the same direction and make sure all timing marks match and there is nothing stops engine from rotating except compression.
When you're sure timing is fine and engine rotates freely - check for foreign objects around the spinning parts and timing belt - start the engine.
When all settings checked and engine works fine - replace the top cover of the timing belt. Although I never had it on my engine and in my opinion it's better not to have it there - people may have different opinion. Without it timing belt doesn't dry as fast.
In this article I didn't describe how to remove/install alternator belt and AC belt (if you have one). If you decided to change the timing belt - I assume you know how to remove/install/adjust those belts already.
Honda part numbers:
Timing belt: 14400-PM6-004
Water Pump: 19200-P01-004
Timing belt tensioner: 14510-PM7-004
Front engine seal: 91212-PEO-662
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Total messages: 6
just did mine
posted by: 5413m
on Wednesday, May 22, 2013 at 01:49 AM
just did mine used the pictures of this tutorial. didn't really read it. I just needed reference;Thank you for taking the time to upload these pictures.I used a glue to hold the replacement oil pan gasket because even with the exhaust out of the way and the shielding of the flywheel remove its a very close fit, had to bring the oil pan up at a angle with the inner side first. The squeeze was sliding the gasket out of place every time. I also took the time to really clean the area up and it will hopefully make my next timing job a bit easier.
got a bosch waterpump from autopartswarehouse for 35$ I pinched the waterpump gasket and got a replacement, the reason i mention this is because the replacement waterpump gasket that comes from autozone is incorrectly sized for a oem direct fit waterpump so beware.
melling oil pump 129$ o'reilly( it came with the main engine seal already installed)
the woodruff key was broken so i went to tractor supply store because none was available. 1.50$
timing belt with tensioner online for 30$
camshaft seal 10$ moog brand
valve cover gasket maybe 13$
oil pan gasket was 30$
saving 274$ by doing it myself.And thats shopping around locally and neighboring towns.
I support buying new parts because it provides jobs, and keeps demnd on parts for crx's. whether it saves just one guys job pushing a button to make them. Or simply making one phone call and the part just waiting for you.imagine not worrying your favorite car's bearings' locking up on the interstate! Or finding the windshield molding for your car costing less then the glass for once.you get the idea.
Replacing timing belt and water pump
posted by: bowlerguy817
on Tuesday, April 23, 2013 at 3:47 PM
Ran into a problem following instructions on removing water pump. You commented on the 4 bolts with the 10 mm socket but did not mention the 14 mm bolt holding the alternator bracket as well, You said the pump would probably need to be pried off so I kept trying to pry it off until I saw that the alt bolt was holding one side tight. Could have been a major problem when prying, but luckily I noticed it in time.
posted by: Hondamechanic
on Friday, March 9, 2012 at 04:33 AM
Do not turn the camshaft by the bolt on the cam gear, it wil snap fairly easily. Set the cam to tdc with the belt, then remove the belt from the cam gear and rotate the bottom end to tdc.
1989 crx si timing belt tensioner spring
posted by: whyknot
on Sunday, October 9, 2011 at 4:13 PM
where can i get a tensioner spring on a sunday,
or can i make,I believe I can do this,"whyknot"
Exposed parts - change them while you can
posted by: Mark
on Thursday, March 4, 2010 at 7:10 PM
I agree with engine oil seal note.
The only difference in my mind - oil seal cost a dollar or two. You're already there - why not change it even if it is in good or fair condition. Takes only 5 extra minutes.
I'd say - replace all the parts associated with timing belt - water pump, belt tensioner and the engine seal.
Any of those parts go - headache you gonna get is more than it's worth!
Additional parts to change when doing timing belt
posted by: ellupo
on Monday, September 7, 2009 at 09:10 AM
Just a tip to everybody who is changing the timing belt: Strongly consider changing the front engine seal when doing the belt. I didn't think about it 35'000 miles ago, when I changed my timing belt. Right now I'm in the process of taking the head off because the belt broke due to oil contamination from the leaking engine seal. It's probably gonna cost me about $500 and a lot of time. Save yourself the headache and change the seal if it's older then 100'000 miles.
Also consider putting on a new belt tensioner. If the bearing seizes, it will bust your belt very quickly (happened to a friend of mine)